Ammonia in hair colors

In the world of hair color and beauty care, we often face the challenge of choosing the right products: ones that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also safe and well tolerated. A common question our team receives concerns the use of ammonia in hair colors. Many of our clients are curious whether we offer ammonia-free alternatives.

Although we do not currently carry any ammonia-free options, we recognize the importance of this topic and want to provide our clients with the best possible information. That is why this article is dedicated to understanding ammonia in hair colors:

• What is it,
• why is it used, and
• what effects can it have on hair, scalp and the environment?

It is important to emphasize that this article does not provide medical advice. Our aim is to create a sound understanding of ammonia in hair colors so that our clients can make informed decisions about the products they want to use.

In the following sections, we will explain the chemical basics of ammonia, discuss its role in hair coloring, look at health and environmental aspects and present alternatives.

What is ammonia?

Ammonia is a chemical compound made up of nitrogen and hydrogen, with the formula NH3. It is a colorless gas with a characteristic pungent odor that is used in many industrial and commercial processes, including the hair dye industry.

At the molecular level, ammonia is a simple compound, but its chemical properties make it a versatile ingredient in many different products. In aqueous solution, ammonia is alkaline, which means it is able to neutralize acids. This property makes it useful in many cleaning products as well as in certain industrial applications.

In agriculture, ammonia is used as a direct nitrogen fertilizer, since nitrogen is an essential element for plant growth. In industry, it is used in the manufacture of plastics, explosives and other chemicals.

The use of ammonia in hair colors has long been established, but it has also raised health and safety concerns. These concerns often relate to the potential effects of ammonia fumes on the respiratory tract and to possible skin irritation.

Why is ammonia used in hair colors?

Understanding why ammonia is used in hair colors helps explain the decisions behind product formulations. Ammonia plays a key role in the coloring process that goes beyond its chemical properties.

Impact on color results

Ammonia is known for opening the cuticle, the outer layer of the hair. The cuticle consists of overlapping scales that protect the inner hair. When the cuticle is opened, the color molecules can penetrate deeper into the hair and form a permanent bond there. This leads to more intense and longer-lasting color results compared to ammonia-free products.

Interaction with other ingredients

Ammonia acts as a catalyst in the coloring process by accelerating the reaction between the color molecules and the developer, an oxidizing agent. This reaction is crucial for the color to develop in the hair. By raising the pH of the hair, ammonia creates an environment in which the color pigments can develop fully, resulting in more vibrant and richer shades.

Traditional use and current developments

Ammonia has been commonly used in hair colors for decades because it is effective. Today, however, there is growing demand for milder and more environmentally friendly alternatives. This has led to the development of ammonia-free hair colors that rely on other alkaline agents to achieve similar results, although these alternatives are often considered less effective in terms of color intensity and longevity.

Possible effects of ammonia

While ammonia plays an important functional role in hair colors, it is essential to understand the possible effects of its use. These effects can be short-term or long-term and can affect the hair, the scalp and, in some cases, the health of the person using it.

Short-term effects on hair and scalp

The immediate effects of ammonia on the hair and scalp are mainly due to its alkaline, cuticle-opening properties. When hair color containing ammonia is applied, the following reactions may occur:

• Scalp irritation: In sensitive people, ammonia can cause itching, redness or a burning sensation on the scalp. Recommendation: If there are signs of irritation, soothing scalp treatments with ingredients such as aloe vera or chamomile can help. These natural active ingredients are known for their calming properties.
• Changes in hair structure: By opening the cuticle, ammonia can make the hair more porous, which can lead to dryness and brittleness. Recommendation: To counteract dryness and brittleness, intensive hair masks and conditioners with moisturizing ingredients such as keratin, argan oil or panthenol are recommended. These products help lock moisture into the hair and strengthen the hair structure.
• Odor sensitivity: The characteristic smell of ammonia can cause discomfort for some people.

Long-term considerations

The long-term effects of ammonia, especially with regular use, can include the following:

• Hair damage: Frequent use of products containing ammonia can lead to a progressive decline in hair quality. Recommendation: To prevent and treat hair damage, regular deep-conditioning treatments and protein masks (Newsha Rescue treatment. You can also find more information in our article on the different hair care treatments) are helpful. These products help repair the hair from within and strengthen its resilience. In addition, special techniques such as the Balayage coloring method can help reduce how often you need to color your hair. Here, too, we recommend our article on Balayage and its effects on hair condition.
• Effects on the scalp: Long-term exposure to ammonia can change the pH of the scalp and impair the skin barrier. Recommendation: For long-term effects on the scalp, pH-balancing shampoos and scalp serums can be useful. Products designed to restore the natural balance of the scalp and strengthen its barrier function are particularly beneficial in this case.

It is important to emphasize that these effects vary from person to person and do not occur in everyone. They also depend heavily on the concentration of ammonia in the products and on how often they are used.

Ammonia-free alternatives

The search for gentler hair dyes has led to the development of ammonia-free alternatives. These products offer advantages but also come with their own considerations. To say this up front: “gentle” permanent hair color will most likely not exist in the future either. Every product, including plant-based ones, is ultimately a chemical compound that allows the color pigments to penetrate the hair, some more effectively than others. To do so, the structure of the hair has to be altered, at least temporarily.

Common alternatives

Ammonia-free hair colors use other alkaline substances such as ethanolamine or MEA (monoethanolamine) and sometimes plant-based ingredients. They are known for a less pungent smell and a milder effect on the scalp.

Comparison of mode of action and results

These products differ in color intensity, longevity and gray coverage. They can have a different consistency, which affects application, and they are usually more expensive. The range of shades may be more limited, and adapting them to specific client needs may require more effort. Depending on the alternative substances, some experimentation may also be needed to achieve the desired result, as the agents used can have more noticeable side effects in individual hair care.

Health considerations

Although ammonia-free hair colors are considered milder alternatives, they are not free of health risks:

• Less researched chemicals: Some ammonia substitutes have been studied less thoroughly, which raises questions about their long-term effects.
• Skin irritation and allergies: Despite their milder formulation, they can still cause irritation or allergic reactions.
• Concentration of other chemicals: To achieve results similar to ammonia, the concentration of other chemicals may be higher, which increases the risk of side effects.
• Unknown long-term effects: Many of these products are relatively new, so long-term studies are lacking.
• Individual sensitivity: Tolerance varies from person to person, regardless of whether a product is marketed as "gentle" or "natural".
• Longer exposure: Ammonia only stays on the scalp as long as necessary and evaporates quickly. Alternatives, by contrast, remain in the hair throughout the entire coloring process.

According to studies (see further sources), this can actually put even more strain on the hair structure.

In summary, it is worth noting that you should be cautious about promises such as “gentle” alternatives to ammonia, as marketing considerations are often, though not always, behind them. In the end, it is always a chemical process with both advantages and disadvantages. Incidentally, this also applies to plant-based alternatives.

Health aspects of ammonia

The use of hair colors, whether with or without ammonia, raises various health considerations. It is important to be aware of them and to take appropriate precautions to minimize the risk of possible negative effects.

General considerations

• Skin tolerance: Hair colors both with and without ammonia can cause skin irritation. A patch test before application is advisable to rule out allergic reactions.
• Respiratory irritation: With products that have a strong smell, such as hair colors containing ammonia, application should take place in well-ventilated rooms to minimize inhaling the fumes. Hair salons in particular are subject to strict regulations on ventilation and ceiling height to keep exposure as low as possible.
• Long-term effects: Regular use of hair colors could have long-term effects on the hair and scalp, such as dryness or damage to the hair structure.

Gentler options such as Balayage and glossing touch-ups can be used to color your hair less often. We have written a separate article on Balayage and its effects on hair condition.

Recommendations for safe use

• Observe application instructions: It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, particularly with regard to the exposure time and quantity of the product. That is why we always recommend having your hair colored at a salon.
• Take protective measures: Wearing gloves and avoiding skin contact with the color can prevent skin irritation. Here, too, hairdressers are specially trained to keep possible skin contact as low as possible.
• After coloring: Using nourishing and moisturizing hair products after coloring can help nourish and protect hair. Ask your hairdresser. They will be happy to help you and recommend suitable products.

Summary

This article does not constitute medical advice. If you have concerns or known allergies, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist or other medical professional before coloring.

Choosing the right hair color, with or without ammonia, depends on a variety of factors — from individual hair characteristics to personal preferences and health considerations. We have examined the role of ammonia in hair colors, considered its potential effects, and discussed the advantages and disadvantages of ammonia-free alternatives.

Summary of key points

• Ammonia in hair colors is valued for its ability to achieve intense and lasting color results, but it can also cause skin and respiratory tract irritation.
• Ammonia-free alternatives offer milder options, but are not free from health considerations and can vary significantly in terms of color intensity and longevity.
• Health aspects are important both for ammonia-containing and ammonia-free products, because the alternatives also contain substances that initiate chemical processes. Precautionary measures, professional know-how and careful product selection are crucial.

Final thoughts

It's important to remember that every customer is unique and has individual needs and sensitivities. If you have any uncertainties or specific concerns, we recommend that you contact a professional to make the best choices for hair color and care.

Hair coloring technology is constantly evolving, and it is our goal to provide our customers with the most up-to-date and relevant information so they can make informed decisions. Ultimately, it's about choosing what's best for your hair's health and beauty while being aware of the potential risks.

Sources and further literature

Comparison of damage to human hair fibers caused by monoethanolamine- and ammonia-based hair colorants - PubMed (nih.gov)

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