Balayage and its effects on hair condition

What is balayage?

Balayage is a popular highlighting technique that aims to achieve an effect that is similar to the natural bleaching of hair caused by external agents such as sun and salt water. That is why Balayage is often referred to as a summer look; it makes you look as if you have just come back from vacation. In contrast to other highlighting techniques, balayage is characterized by soft transitions, while other techniques can create hard lines as the color grows out.

The balayage technique was developed back in the last century and has been very popular ever since. There are now numerous variants of the balayage technique, from classic balayage for various hair colors such as brown and blonde, to dimension balayage, which uses three different hair colors to visually give the hair more volume and depth. ¹

The balayage technique has several advantages over other coloring methods. It creates a more natural and harmonious look as the color is applied freehand, resulting in a smoother transition from natural hair color to dyed color. Balayage also requires less frequent recoloring or refreshing, as the color gently transitions into the hair and the regrowth is less noticeable. This allows longer periods of time between visits to the hairdresser.

Since the balayage technique is characterized by being relatively gentle on the hair compared to other techniques, we want to take a closer look at the balayage process and its effects on and benefits for the condition of the hair — sometimes referred to as hair health.

The process in detail

Various products and tools are used for the balayage technique. Brushes and combs are used, which make it possible to apply the agents precisely. In our salon, we use our own special in-house technique, which allows for more individual highlights tailored to the customer's wishes.

In addition, various hair colors and bleaches are used to lighten or darken the hair as required.

In a balayage, the hair or individual strands are dyed using a special sweeping technique, which also gives this method its name (balayage is French for 'sweep') ². This means that individual strands are not colored or bleached all the way to the roots but applied so that they fade out toward the roots. This creates the characteristic look, which can grow out for a very long time due to the soft transitions without looking distracting or unnatural.

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Chemical processes and their effects

The balayage dyeing technique, like other methods of coloring hair, uses chemicals that change the hair structure. More specifically, these chemical reactions take place in the middle layer of the hair, the so-called cortex, to permanently change hair color. During the coloring process, color pigments in the hair are removed or new ones are added to get the desired color.

Hair dyes typically contain oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide, which lightens the natural pigments in hair, as well as color molecules that penetrate and anchor themselves to achieve the desired color. ³

The chemical processes of dyeing can temporarily weaken the hair structure and increase the porosity of the hair, resulting in increased fragility. These effects may wear off over time as hair grows back and the treated areas are cut off. If dyed too frequently, the effects can be more permanent and increase the risk of hair damage ^4,5,6.

Important: EU Regulation 2012/21/EU regulates hazardous ingredients in colorants and restricts numerous reactive chemicals. ¹⁰

In order to minimize the negative effects of coloring on the hair structure, various countermeasures can be taken. For example, hair treatments that contain moisturising and nourishing ingredients can help reduce brittleness and strengthen hair structure. This includes treatments such as Newsha Rescue or the classic hair care treatment. But reducing the frequency of dyeing also gives hair time to recover and regrow. That's where balayage comes in.

Professional advice and products

Choosing the right hair care products, especially after chemical treatments such as balayage, is crucial. Hairdressing products tend to be more concentrated and contain fewer harmful ingredients. In the long run, this can be more cost-effective as less product is required and the high-quality ingredients provide better care for the hair. In contrast, cheaper products often contain more aggressive chemicals and silicones, which can further damage hair, especially after chemical treatments such as balayage. These chemicals can also affect the color afterwards.

Silicones are particularly problematic before a balayage treatment because they can prevent the color from being absorbed well. They can also cause unwanted color casts and reduce how long the color lasts in the hair. To remove silicones, the hair must be treated beforehand with a clarifying shampoo or a shampoo with sulfates, which increases hair damage before treatment.

That's why it's worth investing in high-quality products, especially if you want to color your hair. This helps to maintain the condition of the hair and save money in the long term. Even though there are no official studies that support this statement, we can confirm from our own experience that suitable, high-quality products last significantly longer than drugstore products due to their concentration and efficiency.

We therefore generally recommend that, whatever hair treatment you choose, you take home care products from your stylist and avoid discount and drugstore products.

Proper care and tips

Here are a few recommended routines that you can follow:

1. Proper shampoos and conditioners:

Using a sulfate-free shampoo specifically designed for colored hair is critical to maintaining color and promoting the condition of your hair. A conditioner, on the other hand, helps seal hair structure, retain moisture, and detangle hair after shampoo. This helps prevent hair breakage and split ends, which is particularly important if the hair has been chemically treated. In addition, a conditioner brings the hair to a neutral pH value, as water is alkaline and swells the hair. As a result, it becomes dry and brittle. For optimal care, we recommend, as a shampoo, the Newsha Color Protect Shampoo or the Oribe Shampoo for Beautiful Color and, as a conditioner, the leave-in conditioner from Newsha or the Conditioner for Beautiful Color from Oribe. ⁹

2. Deep care:

A weekly deep care treatment can help restore lost moisture and nourish hair from roots to ends. This is crucial to promote the condition of your hair after chemical treatments such as balayage. Advice from a hairdresser is important here, as some need more keratin and some need more moisture. Come by and we will be happy to recommend products after a consultation with one of our stylists ⁹

3. Heat protection:

Using heat protection before using blow dryers and styling tools such as straighteners or curling irons is essential to prevent heat damage, which can fade the color and damage the hair structure. For this, we especially recommend the Blowout Cream or the Heat Protection Blowout Spray from Newsha, or the Invisible Defense Universal Protection Spray from Oribe, all of which have excellent properties in this area. ⁷

4. Cool water:

Rinsing your hair with cool water helps maintain color and prevents hair from drying out. Hot water can make the color fade faster and remove your hair's natural oils. ⁸

5. Color protection products:

Invest in special color protection products that contain UV filters to protect your hair from sun exposure, which can cause the color to fade. These products also help protect your hair from other environmental factors. Newsha and Oribe products generally contain UV protection. ⁷

6. Regular cut:

Through regular cuts, you can avoid split ends and maintain the overall appearance of your balayage. Healthy ends make your balayage look fresher and more well-kept.

7. Protein treatments:

Protein treatments (such as Newsha Rescue Treatment) help to strengthen the hair structure and can be particularly useful after the dyeing process to rebuild the hair and give it extra strength and elasticity.

8. Avoid chlorine and salt water:

Chlorine and salt water can make the color fade and dry out the hair. If you go swimming, wear a swim cap or rinse your hair thoroughly immediately after swimming.

9. Not washing every day:

Limiting washing your hair to every other or third day can preserve the natural oils that help nourish the hair structure and protect the color. To do this, we recommend that you use dry shampoo instead of daily hair washing. For example, you can use the Newsha Dry Shampoo or the Gold Lust Dry Shampoo from Oribe. ⁸

9. Refresh color with glossing:

With a glossing treatment, the color of the balayage can be refreshed without impairing the hair structure. Glossings are special colors that wrap around the hair but do not penetrate the hair. On the one hand, this can further extend the effect of the balayage. On the other hand, a glossing treatment can also reduce unwanted color casts.

Summary

The balayage coloring technique is a popular choice for those who want a natural, sun-kissed look. However, balayage - as with all coloring methods that permanently color the hair with chemicals - requires follow-up care to maintain the color and protect the hair structure.

An important finding is the importance of using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners that have been developed specifically for colored hair. These products are milder and contribute to optimal care. Here we particularly recommend the products from Newsha and Oribe.

In addition, there are other care routines and products that can help promote the longevity of balayage color and improve hair condition, such as deep care treatments, heat protectors, color protection products, and regular haircuts.

In addition, avoiding aggressive environmental influences such as chlorine and salt water, as well as limiting frequent hair washing, is crucial for maintaining balayage color and minimizing hair damage. Glossing treatments can refresh the color and thus help to minimize the use of chemicals by reducing the need for permanent coloring.

It is advisable to seek professional advice before the balayage treatment to align expectations and determine the best color choice and care routine. Feel free to drop by the Sandra von Gneisenau Salon and get advice from our professional stylists.

Sources & studies

Lauren Salapatek, Modern Salon (2013) — Hairdressing industry magazine - modernsalon.com.‍

Yongyu He et al., Frontiers in Medicine (2023) - frontiersin.org - frontiersin.org.

‍B. S. Chang et al., Applied Microscopy (2024) appmicro.springeropen.com.

‍He et al. (2023), Frontiers in Medicine - frontiersin.org - frontiersin.org. ‍

‍Fernandes et al., Cosmetics (MDPI, 2023) - pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov - pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ‍- pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov - ‍pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov.

‍‍B. Bendejacq, Cosmetics & Toiletries (2013) - cosmeticsandtoiletries.com - cosmeticsandtoiletries.com.

‍Fernandes et al. (2023) - pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov.

‍Summary of salon/expert tips (2013—2023) - modernsalon.com - ‍pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov.

Wikipedia - Hair coloring - en.wikipedia.org

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